China Pavilion: Shanghai Flavors in the Heart of Santa Barbara

by Lisa Snider
findingojai@aol.com

More than a year ago, Peter Chen and Lisa Lee transformed an ordinary Chinese restaurant into China Pavilion, an elegant upscale eatery in downtown Santa Barbara. And, according to Peter, “Business is good!”

As soon as I walked through the front doors, the ambiance and décor welcomed me in. Black lacquered chairs, warm saffron linens, red clay walls and sheer pale gold silk curtains create an air of understated elegance. Cozy booths covered with Chinese print black silk and dimly lit track lighting swirling through the black ceiling overhead add intimacy.

Convinced that they employed the services of a designer, Lisa quickly corrects me, “No, no, Peter is the brain!” They went to San Francisco for inspiration and scoured the antique stores. “The dragon rope in the foyer was purchased in Beijing; it’s a rare find.”

Both Peter and Lisa were born in Taiwan, but it wasn’t until their paths crossed 20 years ago that they met while working together at a Chinese restaurant in Goleta. Since then, they married, had three children and opened five restaurants, three of which are still operating today: Ichiban on the Santa Barbara Mesa, China Pavilion on Coast Village Road in Montecito and now China Pavilion on Chapala. “The last 15 years are like a blur!” Lisa says.

Peter's interest in the restaurant business started early on when he left Taiwan for South America. “A good friend of mine, his father was a chef in Bolivia.” Peter took that opportunity to go with him and help out in the restaurant. He has been in the business ever since. To stay on the cutting edge, Peter goes to Taiwan twice a year to see what's new in modern Chinese cuisine.

When Peter and Lisa opened China Pavilion on Chapala last year, they wanted to distinguish it from its sister restaurant in nearby Montecito where their dishes are inspired by the Szechwan and Mandarin regions of China. For the Chapala restaurant, they decided to incorporate a Shanghai flair in the cuisine, which offers lighter flavors, an emphasis on seafood and fresh ingredients and a more sophisticated cooking style. Peter takes pride in the new concept. “I’ve simplified my menu so you don’t always taste the same thing.”

My menu sampling began with the Crispy Peking Duck Rolls with Hoisin Sauce. The duck was tender, sweet and smoky and the sauce a nice complement. The entrees soon followed and were served family-style for our sharing pleasure. I could smell the fresh aromatic herbs in the Spicy Basil and Ginger Beef before it even arrived at the table. The Crispy Walnut Prawns drizzled with Honey Mayonnaise Sauce were rich and scrumptious. The vegetable dish, Baby Bok Choy and Shiitake Mushrooms, presented a contrast of silky, melt-in-your-mouth mushrooms and bright, crisp bok choy.

Those in the know ask for the traditional Chinese menu. With unusual dishes such as Spicy Shredded Pork Stomach and Braised Sea Cucumber, the more daring can experience exotic and authentic preparations not seen on the standard menu.

In addition to customary beverages including sake, plum wine and imported Chinese beer, the Pavilion also offers a reasonably priced wine list featuring a nice balance of local Central Coast and Napa wines by the bottle and by the glass. Peter is currently partial to the Kenneth Volk Chardonnay from Santa Maria. “I’d never heard of it before, but when I tasted it, it was fantastic,” and adds that it pairs nicely with many of his dishes.

Lisa Snider is an Ojai resident and local freelance writer. Her other columns are featured on her website, www.findingojai.com.