Epiphany Restaurant & Bar: Eclectic Cuisine & One Cool Vibe

by Lisa Snider
findingojai@aol.com

e.piph.a.ny – a sudden manifestation of the essence or meaning of something,
an illuminating discovery, a revealing moment

Five years ago, Michelle and Alberto Mastrangelo’s dreams of owning a restaurant came true with the opening of Epiphany. And as Michelle knows, particularly in this business, the landmark anniversary is no small achievement. “If you can make it 5 years, it’s a milestone!”

It was on a fateful day in Aspen’s off-season, in an Italian restaurant, that Michelle’s husband of 15 years, Alberto, found himself sharing his dreams with one of the patrons - none other than Kevin Costner. Michelle recalls, “He gave my husband his card and said, ‘Here’s my number, you need to have your own restaurant.’”

A friendship and a partnership ensued, and after a year of looking for the perfect location, they found a historical building in downtown Santa Barbara. Once a stagecoach stop in the 1800’s, and later home to Santa Barbara’s first female doctor, Epiphany is now a dining hot spot in the fashionable theater district.

Despite its connection to an Oscar-winning actor, you will not find anything trendy here. Intimacy and comfort are the vibe in a space Michelle defines as “urban elegance.” Not looking to create the typical celebrity restaurant, the proprietors’ design has the look and feel of a Tuscan wine cellar. Red velvet drapes, exposed brick, inviting archways and stained glass are set off by a glowing
fireplace and flickering candlelight throughout the restaurant, while window seats and silk-upholstered banquettes look out onto Victoria Street. Hardwood floors lead into the cocktail lounge, which features a mahogany bar and a patio with cozy cabanas. Much like a New York neighborhood restaurant, this is a place where coziness and sophistication meet.

Described as California cuisine with an eclectic contemporary American focus, the menu offers fresh, innovative takes on classic dishes. And Michelle is quick to praise the menu’s inspiration, Chef Ron True. “He’s the creator, I don’t take any credit!”

Chef Ron, who Michelle says has “passion and an under-stated ego,” is a Santa Barbara native whose first job in the kitchen at the tender young age of 19, was right here in this very building, back when it was SoHo. Coincidentally, that’s when he had his own epiphany, “I decided this was the career I wanted to pursue.” He left Santa Barbara in 1991 to study the culinary arts in some of the finest kitchens in San Francisco, Philadelphia and New York, where he recalls “standing on a subway platform at midnight, where it was 15 degrees with the windchill.” Now he’s happy to be back where he can surf, play soccer and share his cooking with his hometown.

Looking to offer more accessibility than that of a special occasion restaurant, they created a menu that provides an option to go all out with an extravagant 6-course wine pairing gourmet experience or a low-key meal of appetizers and wines by the glass. New bar concepts feature creative cocktails and champagne mixers, a raw bar and the “Fancy Pants Happy Hour,” which has become an instant hit with the locals.

An impressive wine list with an emphasis on local wines is, with few exceptions, very moderately priced, with crowd pleasers like MacMurray Ranch Pinot Noir and Honig Sauvignon Blanc in the coveted $30 and under price point. “I like to find boutique wines that aren’t too expensive, ” Michelle says. For those with particularly discerning palettes and the inkling to splurge a bit, higher-end Cabernets from Napa such as Paul Hobbs and Rudd’s “Oakville Estate” round out the list nicely. And with Michelle in charge of the wine list, there’s no shortage of sparklers. “I love champagne; it’s one of my favorite things to drink.”

For my sampling, Chef Ron suggested the Epiphany Limo Ride, described on the menu as, “a six-course gastronomic ride with Chef Ron as your chauffer.” And what a ride it was. Chef Ron has a talent for intense flavor and reduction sauces that take days to prepare. Here are my picks:

• Roast Butternut Squash Puree with Chive Oil, $7

• Ahi Tuna Tartare with a sesame soy marinade and waffle potato crisps, $12

• Marinated gulf shrimp with spiced charred tomatoes and a paprika shallot orange vinaigrette (a house specialty which, Chef Ron says,
“takes the taste buds to a bit of an extreme.”), $14

• Cracked Pepper Filet Mignon with pan roasted Yukon gold potatoes, seasonal mushrooms and a cognac shallot cream sauce, $32

• Meyer Lemon Pudding Cake with Lemon Sorbet and Blueberry Compote, $8

Look for Epiphany to be featured on a top national food reality show in January on the Bravo Network.

Lisa Snider is an Ojai resident and local freelance writer. Her other columns are featured on her website, www.findingojai.com.